San Francisco

Main sights

• Golden Gate Bridge

  The eastern walkway is open to pedestrians daily; the crossing is about 2.7 km each way and often windy and cold even in summer.

• Alcatraz

  The former prison island in the bay, reached by ferry from Pier 33; tickets sell out well in advance.

• Fisherman's Wharf and the Embarcadero

  The waterfront from the Ferry Building past the piers to the sea lions at Pier 39, flat and lined with cafés and views.

• Chinatown and North Beach

  The oldest Chinatown in North America and the Italian and Beat quarter next to it, separated by a single street.

• Golden Gate Park

  A park larger than Central Park, stretching 5 km from the Haight to the ocean, with museums, gardens and bison.

• Painted Ladies and Alamo Square

  The row of Victorian houses with the downtown skyline behind; a short, steep walk from the Haight or the Castro.

Neighbourhoods worth wandering

• North Beach and Telegraph Hill

  Cafés, City Lights bookshop and the stairways up to Coit Tower with views over the bay.

• Chinatown

  Dense and lively along Grant Avenue and Stockton Street; the alleys in between are quieter and more revealing.

• The Mission

  Sunnier than the rest of the city, with murals, taquerías, Dolores Park and the oldest building in town.

• The Castro

  The historic centre of gay life in the United States, with a landmark cinema and a famously steep approach.

• Haight-Ashbury

  Victorian houses, vintage shops and the memory of 1967, at the eastern gate of Golden Gate Park.

• Nob Hill and Russian Hill

  The grand hotels and the crooked block of Lombard Street, reached by cable car or a serious climb.

Best areas to explore on foot

1. The waterfront

   Ferry Building – Embarcadero – Fisherman's Wharf – Aquatic Park – Fort Mason – Marina Green – Crissy Field – Golden Gate Bridge: about 8 km, almost entirely flat, with the bridge growing larger all the way.

2. North Beach and Telegraph Hill stairways

   The Filbert and Greenwich steps climb through gardens to Coit Tower; a short, steep, beautiful walk.

3. Mission murals

   Balmy Alley and Clarion Alley plus the streets around 24th and Valencia; flat and sunny.

4. Golden Gate Park end to end

   From the Haight to Ocean Beach through gardens, lakes and museums; return by bus.

Practical walking notes

• Terrain

  Seriously hilly outside the waterfront and the Mission. Some residential streets exceed 30% gradient and have steps cut into the pavement. Plan routes that go around hills rather than over them, or use the cable cars and buses for the climbs.

• Weather

  Cool year-round, with summers the coolest of any major US city; fog and wind are common in July and August. September and October are usually the warmest, clearest months. Carry a jacket in every season.

• Surfaces

  Concrete pavements, hundreds of public stairways and cable-car tracks to step over on the hill streets. Wear shoes with grip for the steeper blocks.

• Distances

  The north-eastern core is compact, but the hills make map distances misleading. The Ferry Building to the Golden Gate Bridge is about 8 km along the flat waterfront; Union Square to the Castro is about 3 km with two significant climbs.

• Safety

  The Tenderloin, immediately west of Union Square, and parts of Market Street and South of Market have visible street homelessness and drug use. They are not no-go areas but are uncomfortable for many visitors, especially after dark; route around them where you can.

• Accessibility

  The waterfront, the Mission and Golden Gate Park are largely level and step-free. Muni Metro and BART stations have lifts; historic cable cars do not. Many of the most famous streets are impractical for wheelchair users because of their gradient.

When to visit

• September–October

  The city's real summer: warm, clear and calm. The best months for walking and for the bridge.

• March–May

  Fresh and green after the winter rains, with cool but mostly dry days.

• June–August

  Fog and wind in the western and northern districts, sunshine in the Mission. Not warm; visitors expecting Californian summer are often caught out.

• November–February

  The wet season, though rain comes in spells rather than every day. Mild temperatures and few crowds.

Getting there and getting around

Arriving

• By air

  San Francisco International (SFO) is about 20 km south and connected to downtown by BART rapid transit in around 30 minutes. Oakland airport across the bay also has a BART connection.

• By rail

  Amtrak's California services stop in Emeryville across the bay with a connecting bus to the city; Caltrain serves the peninsula from a station south of downtown.

Local transport

• Muni

  Buses, light rail (Muni Metro), historic streetcars along Market Street and the Embarcadero, and the cable cars. A Clipper card or phone tap pays for all of them; cable cars cost more than a standard fare.

• Cable cars

  Three lines: two from Powell Street to the wharf area and one along California Street. They are transport as well as an attraction; the California line is usually less crowded.

• BART

  The regional rail system links downtown with the airport, Oakland and Berkeley; within the city it runs under Market Street and through the Mission.

• Bikes and ferries

  Bay Wheels bike share includes electric bikes that make the hills feasible. Ferries to Sausalito are a popular way to return after cycling or walking across the Golden Gate Bridge.