Lyon

Main sights

• Vieux Lyon

  The largest Renaissance district in Europe after Venice: three linked quarters of narrow streets, mansions and the cathedral of Saint-Jean.

• Fourvière basilica and Roman theatres

  The white basilica dominates the skyline; the terrace beside it has the best view of the city. Two Roman theatres lie just below.

• Place Bellecour

  One of the largest open squares in Europe, at the heart of the Presqu'île and the usual meeting point.

• Croix-Rousse and its traboules

  The silk-weavers' hill, with tall-windowed workshops and traboules built so bolts of silk could be carried downhill under cover.

• Parc de la Tête d'Or

  A 105-hectare park on the Rhône with a lake, a botanical garden and a free zoo.

• Musée des Confluences

  The striking science and anthropology museum at the very tip of the peninsula where the rivers join.

Neighbourhoods worth wandering

• Presqu'île

  The commercial heart between the rivers; roughly a twenty-minute walk from Place des Terreaux in the north to Place Bellecour.

• Vieux Lyon

  Saint-Paul, Saint-Jean and Saint-Georges, each with its own character; busiest on Sunday afternoons.

• Croix-Rousse

  A village on a hill with its own market, plateau and a steep network of stairways and passages down to the Presqu'île.

• Confluence

  Regenerated docklands at the southern tip of the peninsula, with contemporary architecture and river walks.

Best areas to explore on foot

1. Vieux Lyon at opening time

   The traboules and courtyards are quiet in the morning; by afternoon the main streets are crowded. Respect residents: many passages are private homes.

2. The Saône quays

   A pleasant riverside route from the Confluence to Vieux Lyon, with footbridges crossing to the Presqu'île.

3. Up and over the Croix-Rousse

   Climb by the stairways (montées), cross the plateau and descend through the traboules; a half-day walk with views over both rivers.

4. Fourvière

   Take the funicular up and walk down through the Rosary Gardens to the old town for an easier route.

Practical walking notes

• Terrain

  The Presqu'île and Vieux Lyon are flat. Fourvière rises roughly 150 metres above the Saône and the Croix-Rousse about 100 metres above the Presqu'île; both have funiculars or a metro line, and both are steep on foot.

• Surfaces

  Cobbles throughout Vieux Lyon and on many of the Croix-Rousse stairways. Wear shoes with grip, especially in wet weather.

• Distances

  Metro stations in the centre are about ten minutes' walk apart. Most of the sights in this guide lie within a 2 km radius of Place Bellecour.

• Traffic

  Drivers are less deferential to pedestrians than in some cities; take care crossing the main quays and boulevards even at signalled crossings.

• Accessibility

  The Presqu'île and the riverside quays are level and largely step-free. Vieux Lyon's traboules involve steps and narrow doorways, and the hill districts are difficult without using the funiculars and metro lifts.

When to visit

• May–June and September

  The most comfortable months for walking, with warm days, long light and the city fully open.

• July–August

  Hot; temperatures can reach the mid-30s. Much of the city empties in August and some bouchons close for the month.

• Early December

  The Fête des Lumières draws millions of visitors over four nights. Spectacular, but accommodation must be booked months ahead and streets are crowded.

• Winter

  Cold, with occasional snow that rarely settles. Markets and museums are quiet and the food scene is at its most comforting.

Getting there and getting around

Arriving

• By air

  Lyon-Saint Exupéry airport lies about 25 km east of the city. The Rhônexpress tram-train runs to Part-Dieu station in around 30 minutes.

• By rail

  Part-Dieu is the main station for TGV services, including Paris in about two hours. Perrache, at the south end of the Presqu'île, is closer to the old town and also served by some high-speed trains.

Local transport

• TCL network

  Four metro lines, several tram lines and a dense bus network run under one ticketing system. Metro line D crosses from Vieux Lyon under the Saône to the Presqu'île and beyond.

• Funiculars

  Two funiculars leave from the Vieux Lyon metro station: one to Fourvière, one to Saint-Just. Both use ordinary transport tickets.

• Vélo'v bike share

  Hundreds of stations across the city; flat riverside paths make it a practical option for reaching the Parc de la Tête d'Or or the Confluence.